Wikipedia:Igralište

Jerzy Kukuczka
Na Mount Everestu 1980.
Rođenje	24.03.1948 Katowice, Poljska
Smrt	24.10.1989
Nacionalnost	Poljak
Zanimanje	planinar

Józef Jerzy Kukuczka (24 mart 1948, Katowice, Poljska – 24 oktobar 1989, Lhotse, Nepal) bio je poljski alpinista.

On 18 September 1987, he became the second man (after Reinhold Messner), to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders in the world; a feat which took him less than 8 years to accomplish. He is the only person in the world who has climbed two eight-thousanders in one winter. Altogether, he ascended four eight-thousanders in winter, including three as first ascents. Along with Tadeusz Piotrowski, Kukuczka established a new route on K2 in alpine style (the so-called "Polish Line"), which no one has repeated. https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1990-91_files/AJ%201990%2032-34%20Doubrawa-Cochlin%20Kukuczka.pdf http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199330000 Moj vertkalni svijet

His first rock climbing (then only climbing) was in 1965 Soon he send alpication to Mountaineering Club in Katowice. In 1966 he pass mountaineering course in Tatra In Dolomites with partners send new route (Direttissima delli Polacci). At this ascent he was hit by stone, but all members of team end route. After this accident he spent 6 days in hospital and return to mountains. Restults: one new route and repeat Aste-Susati on Punta Civetta. He return to Dolomites in winter and do first winter ascent of Via dell'Ideale (soutrh face of Marmolada d'Ombretta).

Summer of 1973 he go to Mount Blanc Massif. With Wojciech Kurtyka and Marek Łukaszewski do new route on Petit Dru (Petit Jean). At this trip he also do four first polish ascents (amont others: Major on Mount Blanc). In 1974 he ascend on Mt. McKinley (now Denali) on Alasca. He has several frostbites on toes and in generally he was weak on high altitiudes. One year later he get married with Cecylia Kukucza. On his honeymoon he do... new route on Grades Jorasses :-).

In 1976 he goes to expedition to Hindukush. He ascent solo Kohe Awal and Kohe Tez. Two years later he return and do two more good ascents.

In 1981 he goes to New Zealand with Krzysztof Wielicki and Ryszard Pawłowski.

Lista uspona

First time in Himalays he was in 1977. He tried Nanga Parbat, but without succes.

• Nanga Parbat - 1977, neuspješan pokušaj
• Lhotse - 1979, klasična ruta
• Mount Everest - 1980, 17. februara Leszek Cichy i Krzysztof Wielicki izveli su prvi zimski uspon na Mount Everest. Ekspediciju je vodio Andrzeja Zawade, a istovremeno je pravio plan za slijedeću ekspediciju. Nakon samo mjesec dana priprema u Poljskoj Zawada je doveo novu ekspediciju. Andrzej Czok i Jerzy Kukuczka osvojili su Everest 19. maja, 1980. penjući se novom rutom po Jugozapadnoj strani (Pillar strana). Bio je to jedini uspon da je Kukuczka koristio dodatni kisik prilikom uspona na 14 vrhova.
• Makalu - 1981, nova ruta, solo
• Broad Peak - 1982, klasična ruta, alpski stil
• Gasherbrum I i Gasherbrum II - 1983, nova ruta u alpskom stilu, zajedno sa Wojciech Kurtykom
• Broad Peak - 1984, nova ruta, alpski stil, zajedno sa Wojciech Kurtykom
• Dhaulagiri - 1985, 21, januar, prvi zimski uspon sa, Andrzej Czokom, na povratku je zalutao pa je imao neprijatno bivakovanje bez šatora.
• Cho Oyu - 19985, 15. februar, drugi zimski uspon, nova ruta, sa Maciej Berbeka, Maciej Pawlikowski i Andrzej Heinrich
• Nanga Parbat - 1985, nova ruta
• Kangchenjunga - 1986, klasična ruta, prvi zimski uspon, partner Krzysztof Wielicki.
• K2 - 1986, nova ruta, alpski stil
• Manaslu - 1986, nova ruta, alpski stil
• Annapurna I - 1987, prvi zimski uspon
• Shishapangma - 1987, nova ruta, alpski stil

Kukuczka died attempting to climb the unclimbed South Face of Lhotse in Nepal on 24 October 1989. He was leading a pitch at an altitude of about 8,200 metres (26,900 ft) on a 6 mm secondhand rope he had picked up in a market in Kathmandu (according to Ryszard Pawłowski, Kukuczka's climbing partner, the main single rope used by the team was too jammed to be used and the climbers decided to use transport rope instead). When he lost his footing and fell, the cord was either cut or snapped from the fall, plunging Kukuczka ~2000 metres to his death. Kukuczka's body was never found, but the official version was that he was buried in an icy crevasse near the place of fall.[citation needed] Such a step was dictated by the need to find the body to pay compensation to the deceased's family.

Reference

[[Kategorija:Osvajači Mount Everesta] [[Kategorija:Nepalski planinari]