Wikipedia:Igralište

Starting from 1960, the Hindu Kush became the focus of Polish exploration and a place to develop high mountain skills. The climbing achievements of Tatra mountaineers in various mountain ranges, and the change of regime and the liberalization of the Polish state policy in the 1970s, opened the way for them in Karakorum and the Himalayas. Poles quickly made up the distance to the world's best, joining the competition. From 1978 to 1989 Poles become a power in Himalayan climbing, setting the standards for the next 20 years.

Among these factors was the Poles’ passion for the mountains and their ability to devote themselves to climbing which was largely conditioned by national tradition. There was also their ability to recognize the realities of the times and take advantage of the political situation and economic absurdities of the repressive state.

What sets the Poles apart from other climbers?

High-altitude climbing in the winter includes an enormous amount of suffering. Polish climbers were quite accustomed to this level of effort since they did so much winter climbing in their home mountains, the Tatras. It gave them the opportunity to hone their skills for the Himalaya and Karakoram. When their time to travel came, they were ready for the unreal conditions they would face at those altitudes in that season. And they were very motivated to make their mark in the history of high-altitude climbing. Winter gave them that chance.

Józef Jerzy Kukuczka (24 mart 1948, Katowice, Poljska – 24 oktobar 1989, Lhotse, Nepal) bio je poljski alpinista.

Godine 1987, postao je drugi čovjek (poslije Reinhold Messnera), koji je ispenjao sve vrhove preko 8000 m. zašto mu je bilo potrebno manje od 8 godina. od 14 vrhova, 4 je ispenjao u zimskim uslovima. Zajedno sa Tadeusz Piotrowskim, Kukuczka se popeo na K2 novom rutom (nazvanom poljska linija), koju još niko nije ponovio. https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1990-91_files/AJ%201990%2032-34%20Doubrawa-Cochlin%20Kukuczka.pdf http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199330000 Moj vertkalni svijet

Počeo se penjati 1965 u Planinarskom društvu u Katovicama. Slijedeće godine završio je planinarski kurs u Tatrama. U Dolomitima je sa partnerima ispenjao novi smjer (Poljski pravac). Tom prilikom pogodio ga je kamen i ležao je u bolnici. Poslije 6 dana vratio se na planinu.i ispenjao još jedan novi smjer. Ponovo je došao slijedeće zime i ispenjao prvi zimski uspon na južnoj strani Marmolada d'Ombretta.

Godine 1973. otišao je na Mon Blan gdje sa Wojciech Kurtyka i Marek Łukaszewskim penje novu rutu na Petit Jean-u. Slijedeće godine popeo se na Denali.

Član ekspedicije na Hindukush postao je 1976. god. Ispenjao je solo Kohe Awal i Kohe Tez, a dvije godine kasnije još 2 uspona. Two years later he return and do two more good ascents.

Na New Zealand je otišao 1981 sa Krzysztof Wielicki and Ryszard Pawłowski.

Himalaji

U Himalaje je otišao prvi put 1977. god. i redovno išao dok nije poginuo 1989. na Lhotse.

• Nanga Parbat - 1977, neuspješan pokušaj
• Lhotse - 1979, klasična ruta
• Mount Everest - 1980, 17. februara Leszek Cichy i Krzysztof Wielicki izveli su prvi zimski uspon na Mount Everest. Ekspediciju je vodio Andrzeja Zawade, a istovremeno je pravio plan za slijedeću ekspediciju. Nakon samo mjesec dana priprema u Poljskoj Zawada je doveo novu ekspediciju. Andrzej Czok i Jerzy Kukuczka osvojili su Everest 19. maja, 1980. penjući se novom rutom po Jugozapadnoj strani (Pillar strana). Bio je to jedini uspon da je Kukuczka koristio dodatni kisik prilikom uspona na 14 vrhova.
• Makalu - 1981, nova ruta, solo
• Broad Peak - 1982, klasična ruta, alpski stil, sa Wojciech Kurtyka
• Gasherbrum I i Gasherbrum II - 1983, nova ruta u alpskom stilu, zajedno sa Wojciech Kurtykom
• Broad Peak - 1984, nova ruta, alpski stil, zajedno sa Wojciech Kurtykom
• Dhaulagiri - 1985, 21, januar, prvi zimski uspon sa, Andrzej Czokom, na povratku je zalutao pa je imao neprijatno bivakovanje bez šatora.
• Cho Oyu - 19985, 15. februar, drugi zimski uspon, nova ruta, sa Maciej Berbeka, Maciej Pawlikowski i Andrzej Heinrich
• Nanga Parbat - 1985, nova ruta
• Kangchenjunga - 1986, klasična ruta, prvi zimski uspon, partner Krzysztof Wielicki.
• K2 - 1986, nova ruta, alpski stil
• Manaslu - 1986, nova ruta, alpski stil, sa Artur Hajzerom
• Annapurna I - 1987, prvi zimski uspon
• Shishapangma - 1987, nova ruta, alpski stil

Kukuczka died attempting to climb the unclimbed South Face of Lhotse in Nepal on 24 October 1989. He was leading a pitch at an altitude of about 8,200 metres (26,900 ft) on a 6 mm secondhand rope he had picked up in a market in Kathmandu (according to Ryszard Pawłowski, Kukuczka's climbing partner, the main single rope used by the team was too jammed to be used and the climbers decided to use transport rope instead). When he lost his footing and fell, the cord was either cut or snapped from the fall, plunging Kukuczka ~2000 metres to his death. Kukuczka's body was never found, but the official version was that he was buried in an icy crevasse near the place of fall.[citation needed] Such a step was dictated by the need to find the body to pay compensation to the deceased's family.

Reference

[[Kategorija:Osvajači Mount Everesta] [[Kategorija:Nepalski planinari]